Emblems don’t come with placement instructions. Typically the emblem is placed back into its original mounting location. If you’ve replaced a panel – you’ll need to note where the original emblem was positioned on the old panel and transfer that to the new panel.
If you’re adding emblems to a vehicle that didn’t have those emblems on it originally – you’ll need to get the placement information (or make/get a template) off a vehicle with the emblems in the correct spot.
The assembly manual typically indicates how to drill the holes… not specifically where on the car the holes are drilled.
Emblems are typically not listed by size, # of pegs and their spacing, etc… since they will be identical to the original emblem. We try and list this information as a convenience.
Pegs vs. adhesive.
Auto manufacturers used several methods to secure emblems. Pegs through drilled holes, and adhesive backed emblems. Pegs/holes are typical. The problem with this attaching method is it’s an invitation to have a car rust.
Doublesided sticky tape or spray adhesive is a common way to reattach emblems where you don’t want to drill holes in your car. This may require cutting the pegs off the emblem to allow you to secure the emblem.
Nuts & retainers
Many emblems will come with replacement fasteners. Emblems with pegs can be secured 1 of 2 ways. Typically the peg will have a self-cutting nut. As the nut is screwed onto the peg, it’ll cut the threads into it. This is a secure way to mount the emblem, but reaching the backside of the panel isn’t always an option. When you have a blind area to work with – it’s often easier to use what’s known as a barrel nut. It looks like a wall anchor in that its a tube that snaps into a hole of some size and has another hole in it. This hole must be the same size as the emblems peg. The inner hole has barbs which will grip the emblems peg and not let it release easily. The only downside of this attaching method is the emblem can be removed quickly (i.e. stolen) with a putty knife or screw driver.